Snowpatch route bugaboos definition

The bugaboos are a british columbia provincial park in canadas purcell mountains. I knew that someday i wanted to experience this magical playground for myself these dreamy peaks are located in southeast british columbia and are part of the. One look at the glaciated granite spires of the bugaboos and youll agree that the definition is well fitting. After just one visit, you will want to return on a yearly basis, alas as the date shows, i have not been there since 2006. This route is on the north side of snowpatch spire and is easy to spot, just look for the offwidth. Tony mclane and nathan macdonald have climbed a new moderate on the north howser towers in canadas bugaboos. There is a valley the camp looks over to the south and is surrounded by snowpatch spire, bugaboo spire and east post spire. Visit on looking nw from the crescent bugaboo col towards spear spire and east peak. The beckeychouinard south howser spire, west ridge pigeon spire, northeast ridge bugaboo spire, snowpatch and surfs up snowpatch spire attract worldclass climbers. The bs col is still in excellent shape and travel on the pigeon fork of the bugaboo glacier also looks to be in good. We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better. The impressive snowpatch spire is the most obvious spire when entering the bugaboos. Pigeon spire, south howser tower, bugaboo spire, and snowpatch spire all. The bugaboos are a mountain range in the purcell mountains of eastern british columbia.

Research the route the best you can before heading up, of course. The bonus is boots and glacier gear can be left at the base as the route is rappelled. The east face of snowpatch spire with all the free routes on it. The guidebook used in the 1970s gave the route no name at all bill putnam, 1971. The kain route on bugaboo spire has 5 good pitches of climbing, the rest is scrambling and boot kicking in 40 degree snow and ice on the way to bugaboo snowpatch col. At first step move right to base of first pitch, climb crack to ridge crest in one long pitch that is 5.

Please visit our bugaboos ascents page for more details price. Sep 19, 2012 everyone was eager to bag the renowned conrad kain route on bugaboo spire. Stanhope completed the first ascent of this pitch route in bugaboo. The route follows a large prow between the real mexcalito and spicy beans. Climb with us in the bugaboos a spectacular alpine rock climbing area in british. In summer, it is one of the most spectacular places on the planet, a magical place of ice and granite. For our last climb, we wanted to get on snowpatch spire, so we decided on surfs up. A week in the bugaboos western ridgelinescarl kohnstamm. Snowpatch spire and eastpost rest day snowpatch route 5. Bugaboo glacier provincial park c r e s c e n t g l a c i e r anniversary peak 2785m rock ridge peak 3002m malloy igloo conrad kain hut boulder camp private legend hiking parking trail route road gravel surface park boundary shelter tent camping winter recreation area privately operated n e s w brisco 45km r ockypoint c r e k applebee dome camp. From the conrad kain hut an early start has us climbing toward the bugaboo snowpatch col. I really doubt you will see crowds on anything except the few most popular routes pigeon spire, kaine route and northeast ridge.

Bugaboo glacier provincial park in british columbia contains within its boundaries some of the finest rock climbing in the world. The climbing was certainly challenging, and the weather provided some more anticipation to the routes, but despite these challenges, climbing these spires was a great way to spend a summer week. Eastpost spire is the most popular scramble objective and offers a good introduction. It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write trip reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. Alpelow on snowpatch, pigeon, and bugbaboo spire seen from the slot we scrambled up to reach the col. The beckeychouinard south howser spire, west ridge pigeon spire, northeast ridge bugaboo spire and snowpatch and surfs up snowpatch spire attract worldclass climbers. Snowpatch spire, bugaboos, august 1997 the classic view of the east face of snowpatch spire. From the summit of snowpatch spire, the bugaboos, british columbia, canada. It runs up the left side of the eastern face of snowpatch spire and descends the western face. It follows a continuous crack system for almost 300 metres and has everything from fingers to offwidth. Beckeys bugaboo hat trick snowpatch and bugaboo spire 1959 supertopos climbing discussion forum is the worlds most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors.

The route takes a circuitous path to the base of the snowpatch, then up easy ground left of the snow, and then 34 hard pitches all with some 5. Snowpatch spire 10050 is one of the hardest of the bugaboo spires. Bugaboo provincial park is an alpine rock climbers dream come true. The towering granite spires of the bugaboos in the purcell range of interior bc are legendary for classic bigwall climbs in a remote and stunning location. Where were these perfect looking granite peaks surrounded by beautiful snowfields and glaciers. A week in the bugaboos august 2026, 2016 varsity outdoor club. Bugaboos climbing guides professional guided ascents with. Divine intervention topo we climbed the sunshine route on snowpatch spire which had lots of fun meatandpotatoes crack climbing. Bugaboo spire is one of canadas great peaks and our certified bugaboos rock climbing guide staff this area very well. The mountain range is located in the core of the purcell mountains, on the border between british columbia and alberta.

Bugaboo spire climbing guide british columbia climbing. First trip and some beta to the bugaboos chasing mastery. There are two classic british columbia climbing routes. The austrian climber described his route up bugaboo spire as his most difficult canadian ascent, more challenging than his.

The granite spires of the group are a popular mountaineering destination. Definition of bugaboo written for english language learners from the merriamwebster learners dictionary with audio pronunciations, usage examples, and countnoncount noun labels. There is a couple of good spots to fill up water bottles next to the snow patch. First climbed in 1916 by conrad kain, it has been a treasured objective ever since. It is located southwest of the conrad kain hut, across the crescent glacier. There is a nunatak called the hounds tooth at the head of the valley with bugaboo glacier cascading around both. Climbing the col is the main reason you will want crampons. Jul 21, 2018 my partner did the easy route in pigeon reported some snow on route but nothing too bad. Snowpatch spire, with pigeon spire in the background on the right, hounds tooth and marmolata spire on the left. Hi, the bugaboos are in the northern purcell range in british columbia. One of the most climbed and most enjoyed routes in the bugaboos. Bugaboo definition for englishlanguage learners from. Photo by luke laeser the north face of snowpatch spire, as seen from the applebee campground, bugaboos, british columbia. The bugaboos consist of high quality rock spires rising from beautiful glaciers, and the variety and number of rock routes is astounding.

With crowds and the size of the route, its not uncommon for folks to bivy on the rock, on the descent, or at the col. Either of the two will be a major undertaking and standing on top of bugaboo spire should be every climber. If you want to maximize the time spend on rock relative to your approach time, there are much better places for alpine climbing in western canada than the bugaboos. Tim banfield the line of the beckeymather route on the east face of snowpatch spire in the bugaboos. We did the ne ridge of bugaboo spire, there was sketchy snow on the 3rd class approach but it was otherwise unaffected. Canadian rockies alpine guides the bugaboos, world famous. Ive been meaning to create something like this for awhile. Keep an eye on the acmg mcr to get info on the bugaboo snowpatch col conditions. Snowpatch route, southeast corner, and wiessners route. First trip and some beta to the bugaboos chris september 2, 2016 september 2, 2016 1 comment ahhhh the bugaboos. Welcome to bugaboo rock guides, an alpine rock climbing and mountaineering guiding service specializing in bugaboo adventures. The descent via the kain route went into the morning of july 28th. From the col we work our way, often by headlamp, through the lower 3rd and 4th class sections of the route.

A headsup about rock fall in the bugaboo snowpatch col from heidi the kain hut custodian. The route begins at the bugaboo snowpatch col and climbs mostly easy fifthclass up a ridge until the crux. There is a map in the photo gallery for krausmccarthy approach beta. It starts directly above the bugaboo snowpatch col, is nw facing so typically colder, and does not reach the summit but gains a prominent shoulder above the tom eagan wall. Please practice handwashing and social distancing, and. The bugaboos of british columbia are an amazing group of huge granite spires towering above a sea of glaciers. The bugaboos in bc canada between cranbrook and golden, truly an alpine experience to treasure and remember. Climb in one of the worlds great alpine rock climbing areas. Its right in front of you when you reach the hut, the distinctive snowfield that gives the mountain its name front and center. Snowpatch spire, beckeymather route, first free ascent canada, british columbia, purcell mountains, bugaboos. It stands just to the west of applebee campground and is host to over 50 routes from 5.

Once you arrive you can take your pick of any one of the many classic lines. Top on my list was the beckeychouinard route on south howser tower a fifty classic. One 3 meter wet section of rock on the hand traverse leading to the base of the snowpatch. Bugaboo spire is one of the tallest peaks in this area and offers two classic routes the ne ridge iv, 5. Snowpatch spire, beckeymather route, first free ascent. Your guides coach you up the steep snow slopes, moving quickly through the col. The bugaboos are protected within bugaboo provincial park.

Conrad kain once described this spire as being unclimbable. Beautiful views of alpine lakes, glaciers, and surrounding alpine peaks. Rapping off the tower at dusk, he was back at the campground by 8 p. The snowpatch route on spowpatch spire in the bugaboos is a classic if for no other reason in that it is one of the most prominent and visible routes from the kain hut. Colin moorhead and i rolled out of golden at 6pm on friday august 19th, bound for the bugaboos.

This trip report from the bugaboos is long overdue. Sunshine cracks on snowpatch was in condition as well, if you can climb wet 10d offwidth. Just to the east, the bugaboo glacier gouges past marmolata spire to plunge in a broken frenzy of ice to the valley floor. Bugaboos 2007 beckeychouinard, nw ridge hounds tooth. The famous bugaboos is one of the mustvisit places in north america. It was wonderful to be able to spend a week in the bugaboos with leif. Private climbing departures are very popular and are available from late june to early september. During the 1970s, i often would hear climbers proudly say. With its first ascent in 1940, snowpatch spire mountain peak was the last of the bugaboo spires to be climbed. A steep wall of rock, known as a gendarme, creates a technical climbing crux on an otherwise scrambley line. The east face of snowpatch spire, named for a snowfield that clings to the.

Youll first set your eyes on this spire from the parking lot and will identify it by its huge patch of snow found half way up the side of the east face. In peter croft style, cory hall has linked four of the. Bugaboo definition, something that causes fear or worry. Bonom and i set off to climb the kraussmccarthy route on snowpatch spire the morning after we arrived. Snowpatch spire, east face, new routes canada, purcell mountains, bugaboos over the last decade or so, the 500m east face of snowpatch spire has been transformed into one of the finest alpine free climbing walls in north america.

Climb with us in the bugaboos a spectacular alpine rock climbing area in british columbias purcell range. Beckeys bugaboo hat trick snowpatch and bugaboo spire. The kain route on bugaboo spire is one of canadas most iconic alpine climbs. Rock climbing in the bugaboos sylvan rocks climbing. Sunshine is on the north face, which can be approached by following the trail from the hut about a quarter way up toward the snowpatchbugaboo col to a large, loose ledge. The route takes a circuitous path to the base of the snowpatch, then up easy. There are both bolted and free routes throughout the.

We used a left variation on pitches three to five, ascending a long rightfacing corner to rejoin the line in the guidebook at the roof. John guy and i headed to the bugaboos for a few days of climbing in late july. Rock climbing routes in the bugaboos, british columbia. There are both bolted and free routes throughout the group. Thanks to leif for showing me the area, and for being great company all week. Mar 23, 2016 the gendarme atop the gendarme pitch of the ultra classic kain route 5. I thought i might mention that we had another evac due to rockfall in the col last night. We are most comfortable making the tough decisions in regards to weather and conditions on lofty alpine objectives. The best and most accesible alpine granite climbing area in canada. Soon after my first trip to the bugaboos in 2006 click for trip report and photos, i began to make plans to return to this amazing climbing meca. Once you climb up higher you can see there are actually several lakes very close to camp.

By this point in the trip, we all felt confident and we scrambled along together unroped, enjoying the movement and the vistas and the company. Since i saw the pictures of the bugaboo splitter cracks soaring above glaciers, ive been wanting to go to the bugaboos. For starters bugaboo provincial park is no stranger to bad weather. The west ridge of pigeon spire is one of the classics of the bugaboos. For a a real day, do the whole route after it meets up with the ne ridge of bugaboo spire, and then carry over and come down the kain route. On july 28, the pair climbed up the shooting gallery and crossed the seventh rifle to gain new ground.

If a summer like 2009 happens again, then both climbing and rappelling the pigeon snowpatch rappels might be a new way to approach the west face routes. Snowpatch spire, snowpatch route aka southeast corner 5. Bugaboos south howser tower, bugaboo spire, snowpatch spire trip report with pictures steph fabian buhl makes solo winter ascent of 5. Bugaboos definition of bugaboos by the free dictionary. Children refers to the set of objects that logically fall under a given object. Bugaboosnowpatch col conditions british columbiacanada. A familiar trip up the bugaboo snowpatch col and a casual stroll across the upper vowell glacier took us to the base of the west ridge. Bugaboo provincial park is one of the best alpine climbing destinations in the world. During my many trips across the bugaboo snowpatch col to climb the classic towerspigeon spires west ridge, bugaboo spires kain route i always looked at the black north face of snowpatch spire, and the striking crack that it held. Large solid granite spires that have a variety of quality cracks. The bugaboos or the bugs bugaboo provincial park is regarded as canadas best destination for alpine rock climbing. Located near snowpatch spire, the hut replaced the original fibreglass igloos placed by bc parks. Snowpatch spire 10,050 feet this dominant buttress holds over 50 routes from 5.

Climb bugaboo spire, ne ridge, bugaboo spire trailhead. Its behind the hut though that the scene explodes, for dwarfing otherwise spectacular spires nearby are the huge granite walls of snowpatch and bugaboo spires. The current guidebook, bugaboo rock, left one name out. Overview snowpatch spire is the centerpiece of the bugaboo group. The kain route, or south ridge, of bugaboo spire is a quality alpine route with a long scrambling section, followed by several pitches of 4th and mid5th class climbing in a beautiful and exposed position.

The quality of the granite, the wilderness setting, the sharpness of the peaks, and the beauty of the surrounding glaciers all combine to put the bugs on every climbers hit list. Snowpatch spire, east face, new routes aac publications. On my first trip to the bugaboos, i was 21 and working as a guide. The standard approach is via bugaboo snowpatch col. Rock climbing routes in snowpatch spire, the bugaboos. The largest wall on snowpatch is the east face with routes ranging from 12 to 15 pitches and almost all of them being big wall in nature. We climbed pitch 7 as defined by the topo in two pitches. Snowpatch spire is the centerpiece of the bugaboo group.

Most of snowpatchs viable free routes are on its western face. We combine our love of alpine climbing, skiing and photography to explore wilderness locations around the globe. A rogues gallery of vancouver alpinistseight on three ropesswarmed up the south ridge of the mountain on august 19. The steep walls and ridges of bugaboo, snowpatch and pidgeon spires as well as the howser towers are what hold the attention of most of our guests. Bugaboos guided alpine rock climbing in the bugaboos.

The bugaboos have several internationally known rock climbing routes. I had the pleasure of guiding the snowpatch route on snowpatch yesterday. The hut sits perched high on a bench above bugaboo creek. On july 27, we summited bugaboo spire via the ne ridge. The snowpatch route on spowpatch spire in the bugaboos is a classic if for no other reason in that it is one of the most prominent and visible routes from the. We are both acmgifmga mountain guides, based in invermere, bc the gateway to the bugaboos. A moderate fall of snow, heaviest on sat afternoontemperatures will be well below freezing max 7c on thu night, min 11c on thu morningwind will be generally light.

Bugaboo definition of bugaboo by the free dictionary. Canadian rockies alpine guides the bugaboos, world. The first ascent route was guided by conrad kain in 1916, and for many is the sole motivation for a trip into the bugaboos. This is also a great area for a backpacking trip if you looking for a challenging trip with spectacular alpine scenery. The first time i saw photos of the bugaboos i was dazzled. While we probably did the first two pitches, we are sure that we and the other party ahead of us went off route for the rest of the route. If, like most people, you enter the bugs via the trail to conrad kain hut, you wont have to ask anyone for directions to snowpatch. Id been to the nearby rockypoint ridge and got a headon panorama view of these spires, but never been to the core area.

The bugaboos are a mountain range in the purcell mountains of eastern british columbia, canada. As ralph widrig, joe hieb and i trudged to camp at timberline with heavy packs, the solid granite of the bugaboo spires looked inviting, for the poor rock we had encountered in the rockies, excepting only on mount louis, had caused our interest to wane. An object of often obsessive fear, anxiety, or irritation. This is one of roper and stecks fifty classic climbs of north america. Moderate climbing past old pitons on quality rock put us immediately behind another party. Bugaboo provincial park is located in the purcell mountains of.